2024 Dr Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese, Mosel

This great Spatlese has a fabulous combination of fresh peach and papaya aromas and flavors, with racy acidity, intense slate and minerality that electrifies it. Dangerously energetic and so pristine in the extremely long finish. Drink from release.

95 points jamessuckling.com

Dr Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese is one of those wines that instantly explains why the Mosel holds such a special place in the world of fine wine. The Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard is legendary, a dramatic amphitheatre of steep, south facing slopes overlooking the Mosel River, planted on pure blue Devonian slate. This terroir has been revered since the nineteenth century and is famed for producing Rieslings of perfume, precision and longevity rather than sheer weight.

The estate is led by Ernst Loosen, a fourth generation winemaker who took over in the late 1980s and transformed Dr Loosen into a global benchmark. His philosophy is simple and unwavering. Old vines, low yields, wild fermentations and absolute respect for site. At the Spätlese level, this approach really sings, capturing ripe fruit and natural sweetness while letting the vineyard’s energy and mineral backbone shine through.

In the glass, this is classic Mosel magic. Ripe peach, baked apple and honeyed citrus unfurl alongside white flowers and a smoky slate character that feels almost savoury. The sweetness is perfectly judged, never heavy, carried by vibrant acidity that keeps everything light, lifted and incredibly moreish. It feels generous yet feather light, a wine that dances rather than sits still.

At the table, this Riesling is a secret weapon. It thrives with spice and aromatics, making it a natural partner for Thai cuisine, fragrant curries or pork with ginger and star anise. It is also superb with salty cheeses or charcuterie, where the sweetness and acidity bring balance and contrast. Cellar potential is outstanding. Expect this to age gracefully for fifteen to twenty years, developing layers of toast, dried citrus and spice while retaining its trademark freshness.