2024 Four Winds Murrumbateman Riesling, Canberra District

Racy and refreshing in equal measure. Delicate aromas of lemon blossom and lemon balm, the palate dabbed with more lemony goodness, from the acidity to the flavours, all zest and juice, with some green apple, too. This might be too austere for some, so pop it away for a few years and it will develop more complexity.

91 points Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au

Four Winds Murrumbateman Riesling from the Canberra District is a razor sharp, expressive cool climate Riesling that showcases just how thrilling this region can be for the variety. Four Winds Vineyard was founded by the Grayson family, with winemaker Alex McKay at the helm, and has become one of Murrumbateman’s most respected producers for precise, site driven wines. The vineyard sits at altitude on decomposed granite and shale soils, with cold nights, warm days and a long growing season delivering intensity of flavour alongside piercing natural acidity. Riesling thrives here, producing wines of clarity, tension and genuine ageing ability.

In the vineyard, the focus is on balance and flavour development rather than sugar accumulation. Fruit is harvested early to preserve freshness and aromatic lift, then handled with minimal intervention in the winery. Gentle pressing and cool fermentation in stainless steel allow purity and site character to shine, with no oak and no tricks, just a clean, disciplined approach that lets Murrumbateman speak clearly.

The aromatics are vibrant and detailed. Lime zest, lemon blossom and green apple burst from the glass, followed by hints of white florals and subtle talc. Beneath the citrus sits a distinct mineral thread of wet stone and crushed granite, giving the wine its Canberra District signature. As it opens, notes of grapefruit pith and kaffir lime leaf add complexity and bite.

The palate is taut, linear and mouthwatering. Intense lime and citrus flavours drive through a finely textured frame, powered by bright, precise acidity that gives the wine incredible length and energy. The finish is dry, clean and stony, leaving a saline, mineral impression that makes it both refreshing and serious. While immensely enjoyable now, this Riesling is built to age gracefully over ten to fifteen years, developing classic toast, honey and kerosene characters while retaining its core citrus drive.

A natural match for oysters, sashimi, grilled fish, spicy Asian dishes, goat’s cheese or simply as a bracing aperitif. Four Winds Murrumbateman Riesling is a benchmark Canberra District white, pure, focused and unapologetically built for lovers of serious dry Riesling.