2024 Gaia Thalassitis Assyrtiko, Santorini

Gaia Thalassitis Assyrtiko is a benchmark expression of Santorini’s volcanic soul. Crafted by Gaia Wines from ungrafted, old-vine Assyrtiko grown in the island’s windswept, ash-rich soils, Thalassitis is crisp, mineral-driven and unapologetically saline. This is Assyrtiko in its most classic and pure form.

The vines, trained in the traditional kouloura basket shape to withstand the fierce Aegean winds, grow in the harsh, phylloxera-free soils of Santorini—mostly in the areas around Episkopi, Akrotiri and Pyrgos. These low-yielding, dry-farmed vineyards often produce fewer than 25 hectolitres per hectare, giving the fruit intense concentration and character.

Yiannis Paraskevopoulos, co-founder and winemaker at Gaia Wines, lets the vineyard do the talking here. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks using neutral yeasts, with no oak influence whatsoever. The goal is clarity, purity and terroir expression. The wine rests briefly on fine lees to add a touch of texture without softening its razor-sharp edge.

Thalassitis bursts with aromas of lemon peel, wet stone, sea salt and white flowers. On the palate it is fiercely dry and linear, with mouthwatering acidity and a briny, almost electric minerality. It finishes long and clean, with lingering notes of citrus zest, oyster shell and crushed rock.

The name Thalassitis means "of the sea" in Greek, a fitting tribute to a wine that tastes like it was carved from salt and sun. It’s a wine for lovers of Chablis, Sancerre and serious Riesling, but with a uniquely Greek accent.

Best with fresh seafood, grilled calamari, lemony dolmades, fried whitebait or just a dozen oysters and the sea breeze. Age-worthy for 5 to 7 years, gaining depth and savoury complexity over time.