2024 Julian Haart Piesporter Goldtropfchen Kabinett Riesling, Mosel

A super-pure Mosel Kabinett that’s so delicate and pristine on the light-bodied palate. The best comes last in the extraordinarily filigreed, wet-stone finish that extends way into the steely distance. Limited production. Drink or hold.

97 points jamessuckling.com

From the famed Piesporter Goldtröpfchen vineyard, this Kabinett captures the filigree style that defines Julian Haart’s tiny Mosel estate. Haart trained under Egon Müller and absorbed a deep respect for classic slate grown Riesling, then returned to craft wines that prioritise finesse over power. Goldtröpfchen is one of the Mosel’s historic grand sites, a steep amphitheatre of blue slate that reflects light back onto the vines and preserves acidity even in warm years. Old vines and meticulous farming give fruit of remarkable purity.

The winemaking is intentionally restrained. Fermentation proceeds slowly with native yeasts, allowing aromatics to unfold naturally and sweetness to balance with razor sharp acidity. Alcohol remains feather light, keeping the wine airborne rather than weighty. The philosophy is transparency, letting vineyard character speak without cosmetic polish.

Pale straw with green flashes, the aromas float out of the glass with lime blossom, green apple and white peach layered with jasmine and crushed slate. The palate is light bodied and electric, with citrus and orchard fruit threaded through shimmering acidity. A gentle sweetness cushions the attack before the wine snaps back to a long, mineral finish that feels almost salty.

It pairs beautifully with spicy Asian cuisine, seafood and lightly sweet dishes, or simply as a contemplative aperitif. Drinking beautifully now for its youthful brilliance, it will cellar for twenty years or more, developing honeyed and smoky depth.