2024 Maison Camille Thiriet Bourgogne Blanc Cuvée Confidentielle, Burgundy

More airy and wide – certainly more forward – the clarity of citrus is very appealing. Generous but with super scale and even more super mouth-watering flavour. What a beautiful Bourgogne that maybe has some of the generosity of the Mâcon but none of the extra sunshine that you usually get with blends from there!

Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report

Camille Thiriet is one of the most interesting young talents to emerge from Burgundy in recent years. After working alongside Nicolas Potel at Domaine de Bellene, she joined forces with Canadian winemaker Matt Chittick in 2016 to establish Maison Camille Thiriet in Comblanchien, just south of Nuits Saint Georges. What began as a tiny négociant project has developed into a highly regarded domaine, with meticulous vineyard work, thoughtful winemaking and very limited production. The wines have attracted an enthusiastic following, and allocations rarely stretch very far.

Cuvée Confidentielle is a particularly intriguing addition to the range, its name suggesting something rather more discreet than an ordinary Bourgogne Blanc. The 2024 vintage was demanding across Burgundy, with a cool, wet growing season and substantially reduced yields in many vineyards. Chardonnay from carefully selected parcels nevertheless produced wines with attractive citrus freshness and moderate alcohol. Camille's restrained approach to oak and gentle handling in the cellar suits the vintage, allowing texture and subtle savoury detail to develop without overwhelming the fruit.

Pale straw gold with lemon, white peach and crisp pear, followed by grapefruit and delicate white flowers. Fresh almond, hazelnut and a little crushed stone add complexity, with a faint suggestion of toast and flint. The palate is finely textured, with orchard fruit and citrus supported by lively acidity. There is a lovely balance between the wine's gentle creaminess and its more energetic, mineral side. Preserved lemon, almond and subtle savoury notes linger through a clean, persistent finish.

Seared scallops with cauliflower purée and browned butter would be excellent, while crab linguine, grilled John Dory with lemon, zucchini flowers filled with ricotta or roast cauliflower with hazelnuts would all find plenty of common ground. Cellaring: Drink now to 2033.