2024 Ministry of Clouds Shiraz, McLaren Vale

There’s always a panoply of pick times and ferment constructions employed, with the matrix reminiscent of a forensic investigation, carefully linked by string and drawing pins. The impact, however, is entirely effortless, with a seamless feel and gossamer layering. This is agreeably lightweighted, scented with coal-smoky bunch notes, trilling with red fruits and popping with spices, running though coriander seed, green cardamom, white pepper and fennel seed. Goji berry, redcurrant, rose petal, Earl Grey tea, tart blackberry, tamarind … sweet and sour in the right way. A thoroughly modern Vale shiraz with Rhône echoes. Lovely.

95 points Special Value Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

Drawn from carefully selected McLaren Vale sites, this Shiraz reflects Ministry of Clouds’ philosophy of elegance over excess, where perfume, detail and structure matter more than sheer weight. The project is led by Julian Forwood and Bernice Loughlin, who focus on vineyard expression and balance, sourcing fruit from old vine parcels shaped by ironstone soils and maritime influence. McLaren Vale sunshine delivers ripeness and generosity, but the coastal breezes and thoughtful picking preserve freshness, resulting in a Shiraz that feels refined, savoury and modern.

Winemaking is deliberate and restrained, aiming to frame the fruit rather than dominate it. Gentle extraction and measured oak build texture and length, while keeping the wine energetic and transparent. The style nods to cooler climate Syrah in its spice and lift, while still carrying the warmth and depth of the Vale.

In the glass it shows a deep crimson with purple hues. Aromas are layered and lifted, opening with blackberry, dark cherry and blueberry, followed by cracked pepper, violets, dried herbs and a subtle smoked meat note. There is a savoury ironstone edge that adds complexity and regional identity.

The palate is medium to full bodied and beautifully shaped, with dark fruit wrapped in fine, persistent tannins and a bright acid line that gives drive and precision. Flavours move from ripe berry into spice and savoury earth, finishing long and mineral. The texture is silky yet structured, inviting both immediate drinking and cellaring.

It pairs naturally with lamb, grilled meats, duck, mushroom dishes and slow cooked beef. Drinking impressively now with air, it will cellar confidently for eight to twelve years, developing deeper savoury, leathery and spice driven complexity.

This is McLaren Vale Shiraz in a tailored suit, generous but controlled, expressive yet composed, carrying both regional warmth and cool headed finesse.