2024 Oliver's Taranga Small Batch Mencia, McLaren Vale

Arguably the touchstone for mencía in this country, with the nation’s first vines planted by Corrina Wright in 2011. Her first red was made in 2016, so this is the ninth edition – a reasonable survey. Fermented as whole berries in a closed fermenter, this was raised half in tank and half in older French oak. Duskily floral, sultry in its posy of deep red and purple blooms, lilting their perfume over ripe blackberries, plump blueberries, dark spices and humus-rich soil, luscious in its way, but not overdone. It’s silkily supple, supported by a brace of fine tannins, and it’s another fine release.

93 points Special Value Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

A playful nod to Spain planted firmly in McLaren Vale soil, this small batch Mencía shows Oliver’s Taranga’s love of experimentation and Mediterranean varieties. The Oliver family has farmed the estate for generations, and this parcel reflects their curiosity about how Iberian grapes translate in Vale conditions. Warm days build juicy fruit while cooling breezes preserve lift, shaping a wine that feels bright and savoury rather than heavy. The small batch approach keeps the focus on freshness and personality.

Winemaking is light handed and fruit driven. Extraction is gentle to protect Mencía’s natural perfume and fine tannin, with minimal oak influence so the variety’s floral and spice notes stay front and centre. The result is a red that feels energetic, crunchy and modern.

Vibrant ruby in colour, the aromas leap out with red cherry, raspberry and pomegranate, followed by violet, cracked pepper and a faint herbal edge. The palate is medium bodied and silky, with juicy red fruit wrapped in soft tannins and bright acidity. Flavours echo the nose, berry fruit and spice flowing into a clean, mouthwatering finish. The texture is supple and refreshing, built for immediate drinking.

It pairs beautifully with tapas, grilled pork, charcuterie and vegetable driven dishes. Slightly chilled, it becomes even more lively. Best enjoyed young for its snap and charm.

This is McLaren Vale seen through a Spanish lens, vibrant, savoury and joyfully drinkable.