2024 Philip Shaw The Conductor Merlot, Orange

Philip Shaw was an early advocate for Merlot in Orange, and with good reason. At this altitude and in this climate, the variety sheds the soft, sometimes one-dimensional character it can carry in warmer regions and takes on real structure and savouriness — something closer in spirit to the right bank of Bordeaux than to most Australian Merlot. It is one of Koomooloo's most natural fits.

The Conductor is the accessible expression of that. Grapes are destemmed and sorted, fermented with wild yeast in closed tanks, with daily pump-overs and extended maceration to build depth. Twelve months in mostly older French oak follows — present enough to frame the fruit, restrained enough not to obscure it.

The wine shows ripe red plum, redcurrant and a hint of dark cherry on the nose, with an earthy, mushroom-edged complexity beneath. The palate is medium-bodied, smooth and savoury, with fine tannins, poised acidity and a finish that lingers with dried herb and spice. Nothing overworked. Honest, food-friendly red wine.

Lamb, duck, mushroom-based dishes or a simple roast. Approachable now but will reward another two to three years.

Drink now through 2029.