2024 Vasse Felix Estate Syrah, Margaret River

You must treat this right, which means decanting it, then following up with a big glass to further enjoy the heady aromas and bold flavours. Violets and roses, pepper and baking spices, with a whorl of the darkest fruit infused with mint and dark chocolate. The palate is full bodied thanks to expansive tannins, yet is so refreshing thanks to the vibrancy of the acidity.

94 points Jane Faulkner Halliday Wine Companion 

Syrah from Margaret River offers a different lens on the grape, and Vasse Felix captures that beautifully. As the founding estate of the region, established by Dr Tom Cullity, there has always been a focus on site expression, particularly from the gravelly loam soils of Wilyabrup where the maritime influence tempers ripeness and builds natural finesse. Under Virginia Willcock, the style leans more toward elegance than sheer power, a cooler, more refined interpretation compared to its Barossa cousins.

Dark cherry and blackberry sit alongside lifted notes of violet, cracked pepper and a touch of olive tapenade. There is a savoury thread running through it, something slightly earthy and spicy that gives it real personality. The tannins are fine and persistent rather than heavy, guiding the wine through a long, composed finish. Oak is subtle, more about framing the fruit than making a statement, allowing that regional character to shine through.

It is drinking well now, especially if given a little air, but there is the structure to reward patience over the next eight to twelve years, where those peppery and savoury elements will deepen and become more complex.

Perfect with chargrilled lamb cutlets with rosemary, duck breast with black olive and thyme, or even a slow cooked Moroccan style tagine with warming spices. This is a wine that suits cooler evenings and thoughtful cooking, where the layers in the glass mirror what is happening on the plate.