2025 Billy Button Fiano, Alpine Valley

As the fiano grape takes a serious foothold in our wine-drinking hearts, it is clear that there are many sides to the grape. Billy Button falls on the brisk, zesty, vibrant side of the ledger. Known for maintaining high levels of acidity, that is certainly a feature here, with a tangy acid pulse that doesn't stop as it brings lemon zest, grapefruit pulp and citrus flavours together with green apple, bitter melon, a touch of green herbals and a lasting bitter-almond savoury kick. Upfront and definitely honest.

93 points Special Value Jeni Port winecompanion.com.au

From the cool, elevated vineyards of Victoria’s Alpine Valley comes a Fiano that perfectly captures Billy Button’s playful yet thoughtful approach to alternative varieties. Founded by Jo Marsh in 2012, Billy Button Wines has become one of the region’s most exciting producers, championing Italian grapes in the fresh mountain air of north east Victoria. The Alpine Valley’s altitude, long daylight hours and cool nights allow slower ripening, preserving natural acidity while building flavour intensity. The Honest Fiano is true to its name, crafted with minimal fuss and a focus on varietal purity and drinkability.

Pale straw with a soft green hue, the aromatics are bright and inviting. Nashi pear, green apple and lemon zest lift from the glass, layered with fresh herbs and a subtle almond nuance typical of Fiano. There is a gentle mineral edge that reflects the region’s well drained soils and cool climate precision.

On the palate it is dry, medium bodied and beautifully textured. Citrus and orchard fruit glide across lively natural acidity, supported by a lightly waxy mouthfeel that adds depth without heaviness. Hints of fennel, citrus peel and savoury almond linger through the clean, refreshing finish. It is vibrant, food friendly and true to the variety.

Pair with grilled prawns, seafood pasta, lemon roasted chicken, burrata with olive oil and herbs or lightly spiced Asian dishes. Best enjoyed in its youth over the next three to six years to capture its freshness and textural charm.