Agrapart 7 Crus Brut Base 23, Champagne

The entry point to the Agrapart range, named for the seven villages it comes from: Avize, Cramant, Oger, Oiry, Avenay-Val-d'Or, Coligny and Vauciennes. All the fruit is from the estate's own vineyards, with the Avize component coming from younger vines of 20 to 40 years. The blend is mostly Chardonnay with around 10% Pinot Noir from Avenay-Val-d'Or, and reserve wines raised in neutral oak. As always, this is the most immediately seductive cuvée in the range, yet still fine and saline.

Pascal Agrapart has established himself as one of Champagne's most admired grower producers, crafting wines that celebrate the character of individual vineyards rather than relying on a conventional house style. Based in Avize, the Agrapart family has cultivated vines in the Côte des Blancs for generations. 7 Crus is the estate's wonderfully approachable introduction, offering a taste of Agrapart's meticulous craftsmanship and exceptional vineyard holdings without sacrificing personality or finesse.

As its name suggests, 7 Crus draws fruit from seven villages across the Côte des Blancs and surrounding areas. Chardonnay takes the leading role, complemented by Pinot Noir, creating a Champagne with both freshness and appealing depth. The base 2023 release combines the character of that harvest with reserve wines, while careful maturation on lees contributes texture and savoury complexity.

Bright pale gold with a lively, delicate bead. Crisp green apple, ripe pear and lemon zest mingle with white flowers, toasted bread and a hint of roasted almond. The palate is energetic and beautifully balanced, with juicy orchard fruit, fine creamy bubbles and refreshing citrus acidity. A gentle chalky note and touch of sea salt lead into a clean, dry, satisfying finish.

Try it with crispy salt and pepper squid, freshly shucked oysters, or Japanese prawn gyoza with a light citrus dipping sauce. Its lively character also makes it a terrific partner for zucchini and sweetcorn fritters with fresh herbs.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2032. Particularly enjoyable for its youthful freshness, with enough depth to develop further complexity over several years.